There are probably literally hundreds if not thousands of sauces out there in the world. Many of them are derivations of each other; some say derivations of only a few "Mother Sauces". The original classification of sauces began in the 19th century. Arguably, the very basic classic sauces are:
- Bechamel: milk based sauce thickened with white/blond roux
- Espagnole: brown stock/broth based sauce thickened with brown roux
- Veloute: clear/white stock/broth based sauced thickened with blond roux
- Tomato: tomatoes, herbs, seasoning, oil
- Emulsified/Hollandaise: oil and egg based with herbs and seasoning, with a touch of acid. Some examples are mayonaise, aioli, hollandaise
- Butter: butter based with herbs and seasoning, acid. Some examples are beurre blanc, browned butter/meuniere
Other basic sauces:
- Sugar: sugar based such as butterscotch, caramel, chocolate, creme anglais
- Fruit: Fruit based
- Vinaigrette: oil and acid based such as pesto, chimicurri
- Chunky: chunks of fruits and vegetable based such as salsas and chutneys
These sauces are called mother sauces because they can be augmented to make derivative sauces. Bechamel can easily be cheese sauce for mac and cheese or broccoli and cheese by adding cheddar. Espagnole can be made into a demi glace by thinning it with more stock; made into au poivre with the addition of cognac and cream (especially if the espagnole was made in the same pan as the steak). Gravies can be made from veloute or espagnole.
I will cover the sauces in depth and a few creative uses in future installments.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Pasta Made Simple
Cooking pasta:
- To test if the pasta is done, simply take a piece and try it out. The pasta is
not done because it sticks to the wall (what if you have a teflon wall? Or
stainless steel wall?). It's not done because it looks right or the timer went
off. The pasta is done when you taste and it tastes done.
- Cook pasta in a LOT of water. The water will take most of the starch out so
that your pasta does not stick. As a matter of fact, keep about a cup of it to
help "tighten" (or thicken) your sauce.
- Cook pasta in salty water. The water has to taste salty like sea water. This
is the only time for you to impart flavor to the pasta.
- You don't need to add oil to the water to keep it from sticking. Just be ready
with your sauce, don't let the pasta sit around in a bowl. They will stick
because they'll dry together. If you coat the pasta with oil before you mix the
sauce, the sauce won't adhere to the pasta...especially if it's water based
sauce.
- If you're going to have the pasta in the sauce to be baked, or to finish
cooking the sauce, pull the pasta from the water just slightly underdone and let
the pasta finish cooking in the sauce.
- Al dente...means to the tooth. I like my pasta just al dente, still a bit of a
chew to it. The one thing I can tell you about how the pasta look is that if
it's still white in the center, it's not done. Bite into the pasta and if it's
not a uniform color, it's probably not done.
- Select pasta to fit the sauce. Really, you can use any pasta for any sauce but
tradition and sense has a reason for the different pairings. For example, pasta
with ridges are best with creamy sauces (penne with alfredo). Pasta with nooks
and crannies (farfalle) are best with tomato sauces, the nooks and crannies hold
the pieces of tomatoes. Long pasta is best for oil based simple sauces such as pesto.
Browned Butter Pasta
While the pasta is boiling in the water, put some butter in a pan on medium high
heat. Watch the butter, when it's done foaming that means the water in the
butter is all gone. The next step is for the milk solid to start cooking and
become brown. Do not leave the pan, as soon as you can smell and see the butter
browning, take it off the heat. As soon as the pasta is done, toss in the butter
and top with good italian hard cheese (parmesan regianno, asiago, etc).
Voila...done
*additions*
- as you take the butter off the heat, add some finely chopped garlic and/or
herbs, toss for 45-60 seconds
- cook some finely diced onion in the butter. The butter will brown while
cooking the onions. add garlic and herbs at the end as above
- toss in sauteed or grilled vegetables (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, etc)
- for a fresh tasting pasta, parsley, chervil, chives are all good herbs to add
- for an earthy, warm, winter pasta, sage, rosemary, thyme are all good
- add capers along with the garlic at the end
- add olives
- add roasted pine nuts
*notes*
- best with long pastas or ridged pasta
------------------
Pasta with tomato sauce
*extra step*
in a baking sheet/roasting pan, place fresh tomatoes cut in half mixed with salt,
pepper, olive oil and fresh herbs (oregano, rosemary, etc). Bake in 375 degree
oven for at least 20 minutes, check for doneness.
while the pasta is boiling, put some butter and olive oil in a pan on medium
high. When the oil is hot, add onion and other vegetables (squash, carrots,
brocolli, peppers, etc). Cook until vegetables have browned on the edges. Add
some finely diced garlic and herbs for 45 seconds or a minute. Add chopped fresh
tomatoes if you have them, if not, chopped can tomatoes with juice wll be ok.
Cook until the water from the tomatoes have thickened. Add the roasted tomatoes at the end to heat up. Add the pasta and top with hard italian cheese like Asiago, Parmesan etc
*additions*
- toss in sauteed or grilled vegetables (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, etc)
- add olives
- add capers with the other vegetables
*notes*
- best with farfalle or other pastas with nooks and crannies
- To test if the pasta is done, simply take a piece and try it out. The pasta is
not done because it sticks to the wall (what if you have a teflon wall? Or
stainless steel wall?). It's not done because it looks right or the timer went
off. The pasta is done when you taste and it tastes done.
- Cook pasta in a LOT of water. The water will take most of the starch out so
that your pasta does not stick. As a matter of fact, keep about a cup of it to
help "tighten" (or thicken) your sauce.
- Cook pasta in salty water. The water has to taste salty like sea water. This
is the only time for you to impart flavor to the pasta.
- You don't need to add oil to the water to keep it from sticking. Just be ready
with your sauce, don't let the pasta sit around in a bowl. They will stick
because they'll dry together. If you coat the pasta with oil before you mix the
sauce, the sauce won't adhere to the pasta...especially if it's water based
sauce.
- If you're going to have the pasta in the sauce to be baked, or to finish
cooking the sauce, pull the pasta from the water just slightly underdone and let
the pasta finish cooking in the sauce.
- Al dente...means to the tooth. I like my pasta just al dente, still a bit of a
chew to it. The one thing I can tell you about how the pasta look is that if
it's still white in the center, it's not done. Bite into the pasta and if it's
not a uniform color, it's probably not done.
- Select pasta to fit the sauce. Really, you can use any pasta for any sauce but
tradition and sense has a reason for the different pairings. For example, pasta
with ridges are best with creamy sauces (penne with alfredo). Pasta with nooks
and crannies (farfalle) are best with tomato sauces, the nooks and crannies hold
the pieces of tomatoes. Long pasta is best for oil based simple sauces such as pesto.
Browned Butter Pasta
While the pasta is boiling in the water, put some butter in a pan on medium high
heat. Watch the butter, when it's done foaming that means the water in the
butter is all gone. The next step is for the milk solid to start cooking and
become brown. Do not leave the pan, as soon as you can smell and see the butter
browning, take it off the heat. As soon as the pasta is done, toss in the butter
and top with good italian hard cheese (parmesan regianno, asiago, etc).
Voila...done
*additions*
- as you take the butter off the heat, add some finely chopped garlic and/or
herbs, toss for 45-60 seconds
- cook some finely diced onion in the butter. The butter will brown while
cooking the onions. add garlic and herbs at the end as above
- toss in sauteed or grilled vegetables (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, etc)
- for a fresh tasting pasta, parsley, chervil, chives are all good herbs to add
- for an earthy, warm, winter pasta, sage, rosemary, thyme are all good
- add capers along with the garlic at the end
- add olives
- add roasted pine nuts
*notes*
- best with long pastas or ridged pasta
------------------
Pasta with tomato sauce
*extra step*
in a baking sheet/roasting pan, place fresh tomatoes cut in half mixed with salt,
pepper, olive oil and fresh herbs (oregano, rosemary, etc). Bake in 375 degree
oven for at least 20 minutes, check for doneness.
while the pasta is boiling, put some butter and olive oil in a pan on medium
high. When the oil is hot, add onion and other vegetables (squash, carrots,
brocolli, peppers, etc). Cook until vegetables have browned on the edges. Add
some finely diced garlic and herbs for 45 seconds or a minute. Add chopped fresh
tomatoes if you have them, if not, chopped can tomatoes with juice wll be ok.
Cook until the water from the tomatoes have thickened. Add the roasted tomatoes at the end to heat up. Add the pasta and top with hard italian cheese like Asiago, Parmesan etc
*additions*
- toss in sauteed or grilled vegetables (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, etc)
- add olives
- add capers with the other vegetables
*notes*
- best with farfalle or other pastas with nooks and crannies
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
End of Summer Recipes Compilation
Summer Squash Salad
Thinly slice (make thin planks of) summer squashes such as zucchini or pattypan/scallop or yellow squash and put them in the bowl. Finely mince some shallots and finely chop fresh herbs (I like fresh smelling herbs like parsley, chives, chervil, thyme, even small amounts of lavender flowers).
Season squash slices with salt (smoked sea salt) and fresh ground pepper (I like white pepper in addition or in places of the black pepper). In a small bowl, make a vinaigrette with lemon juice, olive oil, the shallots and herbs (usual ratio is 2:1 to 3:1 of oil to acids such as the lemon juice) and about 1/4 the amount of the acid of good mustard (I like Inglehoffer brand stone ground mustards, I buy hotdogs just to eat the mustard).
Drizzle the vinaigrette on the squash until lighly coated, don't put too much that the vinaigrette pools on the bottom of the bowl. Grate some good hard cheese such as Asiago, Pecorino Romano, Parmesan Regianno. mix well, let marinate at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve well chilled.
-----------------------------
Caesar Salad
Cut crouton sized pieces from a loaf of day old italian bread. Heat oven to 350 degrees, and dry the bread pieces on a baking sheet in the oven.
Mash garlic really well with 4T of olive oil and 1/2 t kosher salt and 1/4 t ground black pepper. Use a mortar and pestle if you have them. If not, use a food processor. Strain the oil and fry the dried croutons until golden brown and delicious.
Cook 2 large eggs in boiling water for 1 minute, chill in ice water
Tear romain lettuce and toss with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, pour 4T olive oil, add salt and pepper, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 t of Worchestershire sauce (to taste), break in the eggs and mix until a creamy dressing forms.
Drizzle dressing on lettuce until coated (no pooling of dressing on the bottom) and toss in a good parmesano regianno or asiago or pecorino romano. Serve with croutons.
----------------------
Basic Vinaigrette
Mix 1/4 C red wine vinegar, 2t good mustard, 2 garlic cloves (mashed finely), 1/4 t salt, 1/8 t black pepper and mix vigorously. You can mix it in a canning jar and keep the vinaigrette in there to store. Add 3/4 C olive oil and shake the whole mixture until creamy.
I am not a big fan of strong raw garlic taste. So I would strain it after at least 1 hour.
*Additions/changes*
You can chop fresh herbs and add it to the mixture after straining the garlic. Or if you don't mind the garlic, keep it there and add the herbs at the beginning.
You can also add dried herbs the same way
You can heat up the oil and add the herbs and garlic before making the vinaigrette. Do not fry or sautee, just keep the oil on medium low until the garlic mellows out. Then add to the mustard and vinegar mixture as above. Serve warm if desired.
---------------
Caprese Salad
Combine the juice of 1 lemon, 1 clove of garlic, finely minced or grated, 1 cup basil leaves, 1/3 C EVOO in a blender or food processor. Stream the EVOO slowly to make a creamy dressing. Add a touch of mustard if not coming together. Combine 1 pint of cherry tomatoes or fresh diced tomatoes, 1 C of small balls of fresh mozzarella cheese (pearls) and the dressing. season with salt and pepper, garnish with fresh basil leaves
---------------
Tomato, Mozzarella and Basil Sandwich
Cut tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese into 1/4" thick slices.
Spread good pesto on freshly toasted bread.
Add tomatoes and cheese to each slice, salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle fresh grated parmesan or pecorino romano, add fresh basil, julienned
Quarter each open faced sandwich to make it easier to eat
*Addition/Changes*
Dice tomatoes and cheese (or use pearl sized cheese), add pesto to them. Season with salt and pepper, and grate fresh parmesan cheese. Use as a salad or top a cracker/toast points for appetizers
Thinly slice (make thin planks of) summer squashes such as zucchini or pattypan/scallop or yellow squash and put them in the bowl. Finely mince some shallots and finely chop fresh herbs (I like fresh smelling herbs like parsley, chives, chervil, thyme, even small amounts of lavender flowers).
Season squash slices with salt (smoked sea salt) and fresh ground pepper (I like white pepper in addition or in places of the black pepper). In a small bowl, make a vinaigrette with lemon juice, olive oil, the shallots and herbs (usual ratio is 2:1 to 3:1 of oil to acids such as the lemon juice) and about 1/4 the amount of the acid of good mustard (I like Inglehoffer brand stone ground mustards, I buy hotdogs just to eat the mustard).
Drizzle the vinaigrette on the squash until lighly coated, don't put too much that the vinaigrette pools on the bottom of the bowl. Grate some good hard cheese such as Asiago, Pecorino Romano, Parmesan Regianno. mix well, let marinate at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve well chilled.
-----------------------------
Caesar Salad
Cut crouton sized pieces from a loaf of day old italian bread. Heat oven to 350 degrees, and dry the bread pieces on a baking sheet in the oven.
Mash garlic really well with 4T of olive oil and 1/2 t kosher salt and 1/4 t ground black pepper. Use a mortar and pestle if you have them. If not, use a food processor. Strain the oil and fry the dried croutons until golden brown and delicious.
Cook 2 large eggs in boiling water for 1 minute, chill in ice water
Tear romain lettuce and toss with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, pour 4T olive oil, add salt and pepper, the juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 t of Worchestershire sauce (to taste), break in the eggs and mix until a creamy dressing forms.
Drizzle dressing on lettuce until coated (no pooling of dressing on the bottom) and toss in a good parmesano regianno or asiago or pecorino romano. Serve with croutons.
----------------------
Basic Vinaigrette
Mix 1/4 C red wine vinegar, 2t good mustard, 2 garlic cloves (mashed finely), 1/4 t salt, 1/8 t black pepper and mix vigorously. You can mix it in a canning jar and keep the vinaigrette in there to store. Add 3/4 C olive oil and shake the whole mixture until creamy.
I am not a big fan of strong raw garlic taste. So I would strain it after at least 1 hour.
*Additions/changes*
You can chop fresh herbs and add it to the mixture after straining the garlic. Or if you don't mind the garlic, keep it there and add the herbs at the beginning.
You can also add dried herbs the same way
You can heat up the oil and add the herbs and garlic before making the vinaigrette. Do not fry or sautee, just keep the oil on medium low until the garlic mellows out. Then add to the mustard and vinegar mixture as above. Serve warm if desired.
---------------
Caprese Salad
Combine the juice of 1 lemon, 1 clove of garlic, finely minced or grated, 1 cup basil leaves, 1/3 C EVOO in a blender or food processor. Stream the EVOO slowly to make a creamy dressing. Add a touch of mustard if not coming together. Combine 1 pint of cherry tomatoes or fresh diced tomatoes, 1 C of small balls of fresh mozzarella cheese (pearls) and the dressing. season with salt and pepper, garnish with fresh basil leaves
---------------
Tomato, Mozzarella and Basil Sandwich
Cut tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese into 1/4" thick slices.
Spread good pesto on freshly toasted bread.
Add tomatoes and cheese to each slice, salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle fresh grated parmesan or pecorino romano, add fresh basil, julienned
Quarter each open faced sandwich to make it easier to eat
*Addition/Changes*
Dice tomatoes and cheese (or use pearl sized cheese), add pesto to them. Season with salt and pepper, and grate fresh parmesan cheese. Use as a salad or top a cracker/toast points for appetizers
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